Almost every part of Görlitz is a film location. Getting off the train: film location. Grabbing a coffee: film location. The city even acquired the nickname Görliwood due to the number of German and American films shot there. Along with The Grand Budapest Hotel, the city was used as a location for several World War II movies, including The Book Thief, The Monuments Men and The Reader; it even doubled up as a Sicilian village in the shoot-out scene in Quentin Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds. Visitors can relive each one on the Walk of Görliwood, a tour that interconnects all these film locations.
Reachable and Walkable
Just under a three-hour train ride from Berlin (valid with the Deutschland ticket), Görlitz is Germany’s easternmost and best-preserved city, perfect for a day trip or long weekend. Reminiscent of eras gone by, Görlitz has a whimsical, long-lost feel that draws directors and visitors back to its narrow, cobbled roads, spiralling cathedrals, historic facades and portals. Unlike places like Dresden and Berlin, Görlitz suffered almost no damage during WWII, preserving its 1,000-year history. Thanks to the lack of local industrial development during the DDR period and the investment of a secret benefactor, the city’s history has been preserved in all its glory.
Director Wes Anderson decided to use Görlitz as the backdrop for The Grand Budapest Hotel after coming across the disused Art Nouveau department store, Kaufhaus Görlitz, which doubles up as the hotel’s interior. After seeing the rest of the town, with its mix of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque architecture, he realised Görlitz would be the perfect location to stand in for the Alpine village Lutz in the fictional Republic of Zubrowka, where the film takes place during the interwar period. The production team relocated to the German city, making the most of interior and exterior filming locations and transforming Görlitz into the fantastical world you see on film. Wandering around the city centre from the cemetery to the Old Town Hall to the train station, you’ll encounter multiple scenes: where Saoirse Ronan biked along Fischmarktstraße to the the Brauner Hirsch, where Ralph Fiennes confided with Tony Revolori and the St Nicholas Cemetery where the film opens out.
Small and compact, Görlitz holds everything within walking distance. From on of Germany’s oldest Renaissance buildings, the Schönhof, you can stride on towards the Baroque House (as seen in the German movie Young Goethe in Love), before heading up to Peterskirche, the tallest Gothic church in Eastern Europe. Finish the day by hanging out in the Lower Market, where you can pass on rumours through the Whispering Arch while being spied upon by the Old Town Hall’s clock facade with its ever-moving eyes.
A Polish Sojourn
When sightseeing and film spotting become too much, you can cross the Altstadtbrücke into Zgorzelec, Poland. After WWII, the newly repositioned border between Poland and Germany divided the city into two halves, which have since been reconnected thanks to the Schengen agreement. Often used as a chance for visitors to flex their currency and do some shopping, the Polish riverbank provides some of the best views of the old Lusatian town.
A stroll further down the River Neisse takes you to the historic Landskron Brewery (used as a film location for Steve Coogan’s Around the World in 80 Days), which offers tours and tastings. Just off the Lower Market is the Senfladen Görlitz, a favourite grocery store of Bill Murray’s when he filmed in the city. The Senfladen, one of the town’s hotspots, typically stocks over 300 varieties of mustard at any given time. Görlitz is also famed for its Silesian cuisine: a mixture of soups, dumplings and seasoned meats, available at restaurants throughout the city.
Yet to be overcome by the mass levels of tourism seen in nearby cities, Görlitz remains a pearl of East Germany – untouched, relatively undiscovered, picture-perfect and resplendent in its history.
At a Glance
- Getting there: Take a train for 1.5 hours from Berlin Hbf to Dresden-Neustadt with a quick change, then a direct journey to Görlitz.
- Where to eat: Restaurant Destille
- Must-try dish: Schlesisches Himmelreich, which translates as ‘Silesian Kingdom of Heaven’, is a traditional sweet-and-savoury comfort food combining pork and dried fruit.
- Nikolaistraße 6, details
- Where to drink: Landskron Brewery – you’ll need to take a tour to have a drink, but it’s worth it.
- Landskronbrauerei 116, details
For more info, check out Görlitz’ tourism website.
