We’ve all heard of Sächsische Schweiz. Most Berliners recognise its craggy rock formations and unique sandstone gorges, which offer a welcome day trip or weekend break of hiking and basking in nature. Yet many miss its Czech counterpart. Just over the border, Bohemian Switzerland (Böhmische Schweiz) offers just as much drama and thinner crowds. Stretched across the River Elbe, the Czech national park is a sprawling, natural wonderland where fairytale villages intersperse dramatic, geologic landscapes.
AN ARTIST’S LANDSCAPE
The romantic wilderness of Bohemian Switzerland has long attracted creatives. In fact, that’s how it received its name. Even before prominent artists like Caspar David Friedrich came to immortalise the landscape in brushstrokes, it was two Swiss art teachers who gave it attention in the 1700s. Adrian Zingg and Anton Graff, who taught at the Dresden Academy of Art, noted in letters home how similar the landscape was to their beloved Switzerland. After a while, these comparisons stuck, giving Bohemian Switzerland its lasting moniker.
Although the area shares many characteristics with its German counterpart, including its iconic sandstone towers, gulleys and old forts, it also boasts unique dramatic landmarks, one of which is the picture-perfect Pravčická Archway. Offering views for miles around, the colossal rock opening appears like a mythical portal. It’s the largest natural sandstone rock gate in Europe and a breathtaking viewpoint to which tourists hike daily. It even attracted Caspar David Friedrich back in the early 1800s, inspiring several sketches.
THE WINDING RIVER
A 30-minute walk from the Pravčická Archway takes you to the Kamenice River, which lies in a deep, rocky ravine. A narrow tributary called Edmund Gorge connects to the town of Hřensko, which can be reached by boat. Steered by a local ferryman who shares tales of local myths and legends with his passengers, the 20-minute journey winds its way through the angular rock formations and mossy greenery before alighting at the edge of Hřensko.
To the north is the town of Krásná Lípa, the official gateway to the national park. One entry point takes you to the Obere Schleuse, or Upper Lock, dam system in Hinterhermsdorf. Take a barge ride along waterways that reflect elongated trees and steep canyons like a natural hall of mirrors. Or traverse the awe-inspiring valley by foot or canoe, witnessing at your own pace the myriad of stairwells careering up the peaks.
The sandstone landscapes of Bohemian Switzerland dramatically descend and ascend throughout the region, creating a wide array of outlooks from lofty heights. In its very centre is Mary’s Rock (Mariina skála), a former 19th-century fire observation tower that sits upon a 400m precipice. Down the road from Hřensko is the Belvedere Viewpoint (Vyhlídka Belvedér), which offers a stunning, panoramic view of the Elbe and surrounding countryside.
CZECH CUISINE
Nestled between the fir trees and rock faces are the kind of taverns you’d expect in a fairytale. The lure of fireplaces blends with natural pine, creating an almost medieval atmosphere. Traditional Bohemian hospitality is all around, with rustic, wooden restaurants dotting the woodlands. Believe us, there’s more to Czech cuisine than goulash. We’re talking locally sourced fish, wild boar, potato pancakes and various pickled dishes. Many locations will offer board as well, allowing you to sleep off your meal before venturing back out into the wilderness.
Visiting Bohemian Switzerland is like entering a remote fantasy land. No surprise then that the area has been used for several film locations, including 2005’s The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. For a glimpse of it, you don’t even have to crawl through some magic portal – just jump on a train from Berlin.
AT A GLANCE
Getting There
Journey to Dresden on regional connections with a Deutschland-Ticket, connect with the S-Bahn to Schöna, then take a ferry across the Elbe to Hřensko. Or you can change trains at Bad Schandau to continue on to Krásná Lípa.
Where to Stay
Falkenštejn Brewery, Křinické nám. 7/12, Krásná Lípa
Located on the cusp of the national park, Falkenštejn Brewery offers the best of Czech beer and Bohemian hospitality.
Where to Eat
Resort U Fořta, 37 Mezná, Hřensko
Nestled in the heart of the national park, U Forta offers a haute cuisine take on traditional Czech dishes.
