• Food
  • The wurst is yet to come


The wurst is yet to come

Still eating meat and wondering what to eat? Forget mass-processed mystery meats and generic Bratwurst! Let these Berlin artisan butchers show you how the sausage is made.

Image for The wurst is yet to come
Photo by Viktor Richardsson

Forget mass-processed mystery meats and generic Bratwurst! Let these Berlin artisan butchers show you how the sausage is made.

Kumpel & Keule

Hendrik Haase is the man behind the Gestalten coffee-table book Crafted Meats, and his new shop in Markthalle IX, a joint effort with 27-year-old hotshot butcher Jörg Förstera, offers just that. Prime cuts are displayed just so on white platters, accentuated with a sprig of rosemary here or a lemon slice there. You can watch the entire sausage-making process through a glass pane – and with gleaming stainless steel meat grinders and ingredients parcelled out in little bowls, never has the process of stuffing animal bits into intestines looked so beautiful. Their Italian-style salsiccia (photo) is redolent of wine and garlic and, most of all, pig: the black-spotted heritage breed, raised on acorns, fruit and organic grains on a farm in Schwäbisch Hall. It’s delicious but delicate; if you don’t want to risk overcooking the somewhat pricey links (€1.79/100g), ask the K&K guys to fry one up for you on the spot (€3).

Markthalle IX, Eisenbahnstr. 42-43, Kreuzberg, U-Bhf Görlitzer Bahnhof, Tue, Fri 10-20, Wed 10-18, Thu 10-22, Sat 10-18

The Sausage Man Never Sleeps

Former freezer worker and food safety advisor Simon Ellery’s path to homemade Wurst came through a €9 meat grinder purchased at Mauerpark shortly after moving to Berlin in 2010; now a bona-fide Fleischermeister, the New Zealander grinds his sausage in a Prenzlauer Berg butcher shop on Thursdays and sells it at Markthalle IX on Saturdays. His signature jalapeño-cheddar and apple-sage varieties (€16/kg) combine the densely meaty consistency of German brats with what he calls “New Zealand-style” flavours; he also satisfies Berlin Brits with black pudding and streaky bacon. Not to mention supplying restaurants with just about any kind of sausage they ask for: Chorizo for Santa Maria Eastside’s brunches? American hot dogs for Kreuzberg whisky ‘n’ wiener joint Bourbon Dogs? The name may have come from a jokey song he wrote once, but this Sausage Man’s endeavours leave him little time for shut-eye indeed.

Orders and locations at www.thesausagemanneversleeps.com

The Fleischerei

It sounds like a wacky sitcom plot: an Irish Neuberliner teams up with the German proprietor of an old-school butcher shop in Neukölln to help him adapt to his now-gentrified surroundings. Will Cormac O’Neill’s Saturday evening pop-ups, featuring pulled pork, squid-ink hot dog buns and back bacon, save Sascha Baschin’s 70-year-old Fleischerei Tölle from closure? Who knows, but in the meantime we can enjoy what might be the first British-style Cumberland sausage made in Berlin (€12/kg), made by Baschin according to O’Neill’s specifics. It’s 85 percent pork (from a farm in Neuruppin, Brandenburg) spiced with pepper, sage, mace and coriander and cut with rusk, a breadcrumb-like binding agent that gives the sausage an especially soft, juicy texture. After a holiday break he’s poised to resume the pop-ups again, so check Facebook for O’Neill’s whereabouts.

Wildenbruchstr. 84, Neukölln, U-Bhf Rathaus Neukölln, Sat 12-20; www.facebook.com/thefleischer