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New restaurant: Fish Klub x St. Oberholz

At the Canteen, Fish Klub x St. Oberholz are serving up ethically sourced seafood in an elevated casual atmosphere.

Foto: Clemens Niedenthal

St. Oberholz has caught a big one. The renowned Fish Klub, under the direction of French gastro genius Margaux Friocourt, has set up shop inside the Mitte coworking hub St. Oberholz. Since late summer, Friocourt has been serving up something fishy in the new collaboration project, called The Canteen, bringing high-quality hand-caught seafood straight from the coast to the capital. 

Spotlight on sustainable seafood

For years, Friocourt has been making waves within Berlin’s culinary circles. She spent her first years in Berlin organizing oyster pop-ups across several bars in Neukölln, and later supplying fish to all the trendiest restaurants. A fierce advocate for sustainable fishing, Friocourt has always been transparent about her sourcing practices and aims to only serve seafood from ethical fisheries. 

Indulge in a platter of mussels with fries, or try the shrimp roll

Although a previous go at an independent restaurant – the Fish Klub in the Wilmersdorf Arcades – was swept away with the tides, Friocourt makes a triumphant return with her new location at St. Oberholz. After a successful summer residency in 2022, the Fish Klub’s new location, The Canteen at St. Oberholz, opened its doors in August this year, much to the delight of Berlin’s pescatarian population.

By day, St. Oberholz is known for its bright, sleek, work-friendly atmosphere. Stay past 6pm, though, and you’ll be transported to a veritable playground of coastal flavors. Indulge in a platter of mussels with fries, or try the shrimp roll – a brioche bun filled with hand-gathered North Sea shrimp, served alongside homemade potato chips. If you don’t mind a bit of slime, maybe you’re even up for the meal that put Friocourt on the map – an exquisite plate of Breton oysters. 

Setting aside the fish for a moment, The Canteen also offers an impressive set of wines for pairing, or BRLØ beer on tap if you’re looking for some fizz. And, although seafood is certainly their specialty, they have a dedicated vegetarian menu for the herbivores among us. 

Photo: Instagram @fishklub_berlin

Cooking up a collab

St. Oberholz, an established mobile working space and breeding ground for startups, may seem an unlikely bedfellow for Fish Klub’s upscale dining experience. But, in their collaboration, the two seem to be paving a future for approachable fine dining within the ever-more-expensive city life. By serving ethically-sourced fish against a backdrop of casual elegance, and with prices falling around just 40 to 50 euros, The Canteen shows that excellent products can – and should – be accessible to everyone. 

  • Fish Club x St. Oberholz (The Canteen), Rosenthaler Str. 72a, Mitte, details

This article was adapted from the German by Alexandra Ertman.