How Markthalle Pfefferberg became the city's most promising foodie destination

Last year, all culinary roads led to Markthalle Pfefferberg. *Photo: Clemens Niedenthal*

This year, all culinary roads led to the maze of stalls beneath Kink in Prenzlauer Berg. When Gully Burger, the trailblazing Indian fast food project from the founders of Tiffin, concluded its trial run at Friedrichshain’s Bräugier, it relocated here.

It installed a digital ordering system so that lunchers wouldn’t have to queue for its masala-spiced fried chicken burgers, chutney-topped vada pav (mashed potato patties) and heart-stopping fries, loaded with lamb keema and melty cheese.

…fish tacos, tuna tostadas, aguachile… and a majestic Instagram-bait creation known simply as “The Tower”

When Fabio Frittoli, the Italian who first rose to fame selling lockdown lasagna, ended his short-lived stint in Markthalle Tegel, he also moved in, expanding his menu to include handmade pasta and starters alongside his signature layered dish.

And when Francisco Hernandez – whose Mexican-flavoured seafood dishes were the talk of the town at Fish Klub’s summer pop-up – cut ties with the French importers, Pfefferberg was there for him. At La Ola, the oceanic spinoff of market anchor Taquéria El Oso, he fulfils the promise that he spent months teasing us with: that of bringing a proper marisquería to Berlin, complete with fish tacos, tuna tostadas, aguachile (a barely marinated cousin of ceviche, starring sweet raw shrimp), and a majestic Instagram-bait creation known simply as “The Tower”. And that’s before the grill has even been turned on…

Combine that with Tiffin’s biryani, El Oso’s Sunday birria specials and the mad-scientist noodle bowls of pop-up Kuma Ramen, and you have a foodie destination that’s finally coming into its own after a turbulent start.

On our wishlist for next year: more female chefs.