Aged to perfection: A guide to Berlin’s oldest eateries

Zur Letzten Instanz. *Photo: Anthea Schaap*

While the city’s food scene has diversified immensely in recent years, it still preserves some of its oldest dining traditions – even in the face of competition from a myriad of trendy options. The continued existence of these restaurants speaks to the persistence and perseverance of their owners. In Germany’s restaurant industry, where 60% close within the first year and 80% within five, only a select few have thrived for decades – or even centuries.

Dicke Wirtin

Dicke Wirtin (which translates as ‘fat landlady’) is a beloved Kneipe near Savignyplatz, long known for its quirky atmosphere and hearty meals. Karsten Drees, host for the last 16 years, believes the key to its longevity lies in a loyal clientele. “Dicke Wirtin has survived for so long because it has always been filled with artists, actors, musicians and, of course, the neighbouring university students,” he shares. “I just try to keep the tradition alive, in the spirit of the original ‘dicken Wirtin’ Anna Stanscheck.”

Dicke Wirtin, Carmerstr. 9, Charlottenburg, details.

Zur Letzten Instanz

Tucked just beyond Klosterstraße U-Bahn station, Zur Letzten Instanz has been serving guests since 1621. The interior resembles a classic German Brauhaus, with rustic features and a collection of steins lining the walls. A few original relics remain, among them a formerly operational oven, covered in 15th-century Italian majolica tiles (said to have warmed the likes of Napoleon and Beethoven) and a prominent spiral staircase in the back dining room. The name itself is said to be a nod to history, coined around 100 years ago when two farmers, unable to settle a heated dispute in the neighbouring courthouse, hashed it out over beers here instead, resolving things ‘in the last instance’.

Zur Letzten Instanz, Waisenstr. 14-16, Mitte, details.

Max und Moritz

Max und Moritz (est. 1902), a Wirtshaus (tavern), carries on the ‘Berliner Küche’ legacy, which dates back to the era of industrialisation and places emphasis on hearty, satisfying everyday meals. Among their most popular dishes include Berliner Bierhähnchen (Berlin-style beer chicken) and hoppel poppel, a bits-and-bobs kind of dish fashioned with potatoes, eggs and pork loin.

Max und Moritz, Oranienstr. 162, Kreuzberg, details.

Bäckerei Siebert

One of Berlin’s oldest bakeries, Bäckerei Siebert (est. 1906), has built a lasting reputation for its signature Pfannkuchen. With expert bakers and fair prices, it remains a cornerstone of the city’s sweet traditions. Those fair prices are intentional, says Anke Siebert, who runs the bakery with her husband as a proud fifth-generation baker. “We only sell baked goods handcrafted in our own bakery … We have always had a high standard of quality and we don’t make any compromises when it comes to that.” Running the bakery isn’t always easy, however. “Some of our biggest challenges right now are keeping up with the constantly rising costs and the ever-growing bureaucracy,” she adds.

Bäckerei Siebert, Schönfließer Str. 12, Prenzlauer Berg, details.

Konnopke’s Imbiss

Konnopke’s Imbiss, just shy of 100 years old, has been a staple just south of U-Bahnhof Eberswalder Straße since 1930. Linda Konnopke, daughter of the managing director and a fourth-generation member of the family business, explains, “We survived only because we as a family always worked together and stood behind it…During the war, you had to be creative and conjure up something from what you had,” she explains. “My family in the former DDR had no way of getting hold of pig casings for production; thus the idea for currywurst without casing was born. When there were no pigs, my family sold Kartoffelpuffer…We experimented and always found a solution, because giving up was simply not an option in order to survive.”