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Seafood

Fish Klub summer pop-up: Berlin’s favourite seafood specialists are back in action

Berlin's favourite seafood specialists are at it again.

Fish Klub is making a splash in Kreuzberg with their summer pop-up. Photo: Zoe Spawton

French-style platters come brimming with Breton oysters

At the end of last year, skyrocketing costs forced everyone’s favourite French seafood specialists to (groan) scale down their business, closing down their pair of market stands and switching their focus from fresh to tinned. Now – for the next few months, at least – Fish Klub is back in action.

Its summer pop-up at the canalside café Lütt might not be as mind-blowing as its 2022 equivalent, a Mexican fusion extravaganza that introduced Berlin to barnacle aguachile and the wonders of the crab éclair. But it’s still the place to go for fresh oceanic goodies, whether cooked or in their raw, naked glory.

From oysters to sea bass, Fish Klub is serving up some of the city’s best seafood. Photo: Zoe Spawton

French-style platters come brimming with Breton oysters and whatever else is available, be it mussels, shrimp, whelks or razor clams. Mains now have a Mediterranean bent courtesy of former Shishi chef Eylon Farber; specials on my visit included grilled fish köfte and a perfectly seared fillet of sea bass with asparagus puree.

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Add to that the expected crudo/carpaccio/tiradito creations (you know, the raw fish of the week briefly marinated in some sort of zingy sauce, whether grey mullet with Thai chilis or sea bream with rhubarb) and crowd-pleasing bar bites like deep-fried croquettes filled with shredded crab and bechamel.

Wash it all down with mostly French natural wine, whether from Neukölln partner shop Treat or the personal stash of founder Margaux Friocourt (the yeasty funk of a muscat called “Herr Müller” is something I won’t soon be forgetting). Et voilà, a pescetarian feast that ought to tide you over till your next trip to northern France – or until the crew pops back up again next year.

  • Fish Klub pop-up at Lütt Paul-Linke-Ufer 22, Kreuzberg, details.