The year’s warmest days lie behind us, and it’s time to once again lose yourself in the mournful tunes of Don Henley’s end-of-summer hit, ‘The Boys of Summer’. But before the sun really goes down alone, we suggest squeezing in one last outdoor getaway.
Just off the small, clear Brandenburg lake of Tonsee in the Dahme-Spreewald region, you’ll find Wald- und Naturcampingplatz am Tonsee Süd. It’s a fairly secluded spot (the nearest town, Groß Köris, is almost comically small) but an easy journey on public transport, making it an ideal place for a relaxing end-of-summer trip.
While most of the facilities are fairly standard – running water, bathrooms with showers – there are some added perks, like a large covered pavilion that includes a lounge area, picnic tables and a mini-kitchen with a stovetop. The campgrounds – one up on a hill, one at lake level – are tidy and shaded, the staff are friendly if occasionally unavailable, and there are cold drinks for sale.
One of the best things about the Naturcampingplatz is that it strikes a good balance between the serenity of the stricter Brandenburg camping spots and the camaraderie of the ‘party’ campsites. The grounds offer a mix of well-loved Dauercamping interspersed with the regular tent sites, encouraging commingling.
After dark, there is a pleasant low murmur of activity as older couples gather around portable TVs, friends play cards and parents play soft guitar for their kids. If you want to have a bit of a late night, it’s best to head to the pavilion and post up at the picnic tables, where you can share beers and chat at a reasonable level without fear of shushing.
The Lake
For a smallish lake, there are big divisions amongst the beaches. Exiting the campsite, you’ll find shadier, flat dirt spaces directly next to the lake, similar in appearance to Krumme Lanke or Schlachtensee. These are free to use for campers and are a good option if you’re looking for solitude dappled in light.
Following the path to the right, you’ll emerge after a five-minute walk at two separate sand beaches. The first is FKK-friendly and also has a small floating dock that you can nab if you arrive early enough. The second sandy beach has more families with children and stays sunny right up until the end of the day, which makes it a good option for those arriving in the late afternoon. Both beaches, as well as the grassy area beyond, are owned by a different campsite and cost €2 per day. (No need to check in; a man will come around to collect your coins.)
Given that there are no amenities (bathrooms, water fountains, etc.) at the paid spots, it can be annoying to shell out the cash. If you’re looking to avoid the fees but still catch some direct sun, continue a little further along the path to where the tall grass begins. If you don’t mind the vegetation, you’ll have plenty of space and direct lake access minus the cost.
Rest and Relax
In September, temperatures may already be dropping as you head back to the campground at dusk. This is where the Naturcampingplatz has an advantage. Their spacious wood-fired sauna looks out over the campsite and includes a shower and a large deck with recliners where you can sprawl between sweating sessions. The sauna easily fits up to eight people and even has a warm little ‘waiting’ room, if you want to get acclimatised first.
If saunas aren’t your thing, the campsite has other ways to round out your weekend. Forest bathing and fire-making courses are on offer, and there are yoga classes – though they only run regularly until the end of August. If you don’t want to miss out, sign up for one of the two yoga retreats in September as soon as you read this. The Wild Femininity Retreat for women over 40 runs from September 3-6 (€260 plus overnight fees) and the Late Summer Retreat runs from September 6-8 (€160 plus overnight fees). No stress if they are all booked up, though. A weekend at the lake after a summer of outdoor parties and late nights will be therapeutic enough.
At a glance
Getting there
Train: Take the RE7 towards Senftenberg, alighting at Groß Köris. From there, it’s easiest to cycle or walk the 10 or 35 minutes (respectively) to the campsite. You can also take the 726 or 727 bus in the direction of Klein Köris, cutting 20 minutes off your walk. Caution: the buses are more irregular in the afternoons.
Car: The drive is about 45 minutes southeast of the city.
Hours & pricing
Stays start from €20/night (€10 pitch fee for a small tent + €10 per guest). You can pay extra for other amenities and services such as showers (€1 for 4 minutes) and electricity for caravans and motorhomes (€3.50 a day for the first three days, €0.75 a day for subsequent days).
