Put a jellyfish on it

Shirts and skirts inspired by Tel Aviv without the sting in the tail: Rooey Vollman on the Berlin label Eva & Bernard.

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One of the Spring/Summer 2013 collections that promises to be a season highlight comes to us from Berlin-based Israeli label Eva & Bernard, who have successfully moved their focus away from minimalist structure to include more texture and boisterous prints in their work. Photographic images of jellyfish swim across silk shirts, cotton dresses and even a fitted blazer; a theme inspired “by the sea and our home town of Tel Aviv,” explains half of the designer duo, Rooey Vollman.

His wife and design partner, Nait Rosenthaler is absent from the interview, having given birth to the couple’s second child just three days before. Vollman, who was a journalist before he and Nait decided to move to Berlin, says they have “mastered the ability of working together as a married couple. We threw ourselves into it as soon as we got here.” They arrived in Berlin in 2009. “It seemed like the only place to do what we wanted to do, and we were fed up with Israeli politics.”

Nait is hailed as one of Israel’s top fashion talents and founded her eponymous label in 2000, followed by her own boutique. But the fashion world in Israel is “limiting”, according to Vollman. “It’s very monochrome, safe. You are also limited by the fabrics on offer, and the climate.” Arrival in Berlin was therefore a bit of a shock. “My wife is an experienced designer, but had never worked with wool before, so that was a challenge!”

The name Eva & Bernard was invented to signify the couple’s new start, “a conceptual and psychological change,” and the young label has already received critical attention in its adopted hometown.

Despite being based in Berlin, much of the label’s production happens in Italy, home to the delicate matte silks that form the blouses, camisoles and pink and white jellyfish-print dress in the current collection. Waxed linen and perforated leather are some of the more textural elements that feature. The collection will be available to purchase on the label’s website. 

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