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  • A guide to Gräfekiez with Mary Sherpe from ‘Stil in Berlin’

Little Kiez of my Heart

A guide to Gräfekiez with Mary Sherpe from ‘Stil in Berlin’

Mary Sherpe, the woman behind the mega-popular blog and Instagram account 'Stil in Berlin', gives us a tour of her little neighbourhood in Kreuzberg. Let's explore Graefekiez!

Photo: @stilinberlin

Mary Scherpe is a writer and content creator whose devoted Instagram following dates back to her wildly successful blog Stil in Berlin, founded in 2006. Next to posts on her website and Instagram about fashion, food and shopping, she has published three digital Berlin guides and even launched a line of puzzles. If Scherpe isn’t busy typing up her latest discoveries, she can be found gallivanting around her beloved Graefekiez in Kreuzberg. Here are some of her favourite spots:


Photo: @lasanrestaurant

What stands out about this eatery tucked away in one of the many side alleys around Kottbusser Tor are their falafel and their flatbread, fresh from the Tandoor oven. It’s bouncy and soft with a distinct wheat flavour and many dark blisters adding a hint of burnt deliciousness. The crispy falafel with whole coriander pods is fluffy and thick, and best eaten with their signature Lasan Sauce, a spicy tomato condiment that adds a pleasurable kick.

Don’t forget to get a glass of the fresh Ayran, too. For a quick dessert, walk across the intersection and enjoy a Knafeh at Doyum.

  • Adalbertstr. 96, Mon-Thu 11-23, Fri 11-0, Sat 12-0, details.


Photo: @albatrossberlin

The hype surrounding this place is justified, and yes, I will queue for their Hausbrot. It’s the best in the city – don’t try to argue with me. Actually, the fact that we can argue about who makes the best sourdough in Berlin is a gift to begin with.

Ten years ago, bar a number of old-school bakeries making nice Körnerbrot, the city was bereft of a good loaf. Today, any district has the pleasure to queue for artisanal baked goods. Their sandwiches, especially the grilled cheese, also get five stars, and Albatross’s Kouign-amann pastry is a must. And the pistachio filled croissant.

And don’t forget the many dairy products from local farmers, or the coffee and wine. It’s basically a mini grocery store at this point – which is why I’m willing to forgive them for getting rid of the seating to make room for even more shelves of goodies.

  • Graefestr. 66/67, daily 8-18, details.

Neuer Markt am Südstern

Photo: IMAGO / Rolf Kremming

I love a morning farmers market haul, I love that the vendors know me, I love talking about produce (what’s in season for the week and which plums to get – you know, farmers market chat). I love the vibe.

This isn’t necessarily a recommendation for this specific market (in front of an impressive neo-Gothic church), but for farmers markets in general. Berlin has loads of them – it’s just so nice to find your preferred vegetable seller, get a little bit of cheese on the side, some fresh pasta, and finish it all off with a chat over some coffee.

Granted, the one at Südstern is happening, with happy shoppers holding glasses of wine and kids running around on a sugar high delivered by the crêpe stand.

Two Trick Pony

Photo: @twotrickpony

Another justified hype! Even though you’ll probably have to wait for a table on the weekends, it will be worth it. Their coffee is outstanding, their brunch dishes change seasonally and are always produce-focused, plentiful, sumptuous and will leave a lasting impression. Also, give the cookies a try! I’m not a cookie person, but their peanut-butter and jam goodie is my exception.

  • Bergmannstr. 52, daily 10-16, details.

Heide Blumenfachgeschäft

Photo: Claudia Meyer

Heide has my heart and trust when it comes to flowers. Her teeny shop features a bunch of pretty, well-selected and very seasonal blooms. What I love most about them is that they not only last longer, but the flowers also unfold in bolder ways than many others I’ve bought. This might be because Heide gets them from her special gardener. She also makes great bouquets, wreaths and table decors. And has great chat.

  • Kottbusser Damm 9, Mon & Wed 8-13, Tue, Thu, Fri 8-18, Sat 8-15, details.

Followe Mary on Instagram at @stilinberlin and on the blog that started it all.